06.03.08

Rabbit litter box recommendations

Posted in Husbandry How-to at 4:42 am by ACR&S

For many people considering adopting a rabbit, they’ve never heard of rabbits living indoors and using litter pans. Their only experience with litterpans is from cats, so they are often at a loss as to what a rabbit needs for its litterbox, and what cat products can and can’t be used. I’d like to offer this post to helping folks understand the various options available and how to make a good informed selection.

There are two parts to a litterbox: the box, and the litter.

The Box

Corner litter boxes

The most commonly sold type of rabbit litter box is a triangle-shaped box with a high corner. They are sold in the small pet section of stores, and typically come in two sizes – an 8″ diagonal, or a 13″ diagonal.

Both versions of this pan are too small, even for dwarf rabbits. The high back looks attractive because rabbits do tend to back up and squirt urine behind them – but in these small pans, it’s just as common for the rabbit to face the corner, and hang their butts over the back and pee or poop on the floor next to the litter box! Rating: UNACCEPTABLE

High-back litter pan

Another version of this pan also has a high back, but is a square, about 13″x13″. These pans are a little better than the corner pan, but still too small for large bunnies, and the very low front may mean that even small rabbits end up peeing over the side onto the floor. Rating: POOR TO FAIR

In general, I find it better to choose a cat litter box instead of one marketed for rabbits. A rabbit’s litter box needs to be large enough that he can get totally inside it and turn around comfortably. I also recommend high sides so that even a big bunny can pee without going over the edge. The only thing you might want to avoid is a covered box – most rabbits will treat a covered litter box like a den, and use it for napping and not as a toilet.

cat litter pan

This cat litter pan is an excellent choice for bunnies: it’s available everywhere, is large enough for most rabbits at 14″ by 10″, and is 3.5″ tall which is tall enough for all but the largest or most directionally challenged bunnies. It’s also only about $3, which is about a third of the cost of a pan marketed for rabbits. Rating: EXCELLENT

Some rabbits will still have trouble with any commercially available box, and you’ll need to get creative.

rubbermaid litter boxMy favorite litter box – one I use for almost all my rabbits – is a 10 gallon Rubbermaid brand “Roughneck Storage Box”. It’s 23.9″ by 15.9″, and nearly 8.5″ deep – perfect even for my 10 lb New Zealand white. At $5 each, they are quite affordable even for households which need multiple pans. The bottoms aren’t perfectly smooth, so they are a little harder to clean – I recommend scraping them out with a small dust pan, then wiping them clean with paper towels and white vinegar every time, so that crud doesn’t build up in the indentations and corners. For smaller rabbits, such as Flax here, I cut a “door” in the side using a sharp box cutter. The bunnies have 4 deep corners to pee against, and the door is still 4″ deep so it still contains most of the mess from even the most industrious diggers. One thing to note – some bunnies just can’t resist nibbling those crisp edges, so I cover them with split lengths of 1/2″ or 3/4″ PVC pipe or plastic tubing. Rating: EXCELLENT

dog litter pan

Special needs or elderly rabbits may have trouble getting into litter boxes with tall sizes, yet may still need the deep walls to contain accidents. I recently found some very nice litter pans marketed for dogs. They have one side with a very low door (about 2″ high) but the inside is spacious and deep. They come in a variety of sizes. The only disadvantage is that they are very expensive – about $20 for the large 24″x30″ size that I use for my large elderly lop. Rating: VERY GOOD

Whichever litter pan you select, keep in mind that rabbits prefer to have a choice, so offering multiple boxes is always a good idea. If your cage is not large enough for two litter boxes, your cage is too small! Putting hay inside the litter box, or in a rack above it, is also a good way to encourage good litter box habits.

The Litter

For the most part, cat litter products cannot be used for rabbits. Rabbits almost always eat a portion of their litter, so clay-based, mineral-based, or “natural clumping” cat litters can all cause blockages and death.

There are one or two products sold for cats which are acceptable for rabbits. I’ll mention these below. Usually, one version of the product is packaged for cats, and another for rabbits. However, keep in mind that the cat version will almost always be cheaper than a version packaged specifically for rabbits, but the product inside is identical.

Over the years I have tried almost every litter product there is. I’ve used shredded paper, Carefresh, Yesterday’s News (YN), Cell-Sorb, Feline Pine, pine stove pellets, aspen shavings, and kiln-dried pine. My ratings are as follows:

sspen shavings
Aspen and pine shavings are pretty cheap ($11 for a month’s worth), but they are TERRIBLE as rabbit litter. They don’t really absorb much urine, they don’t cover the odor at all, they easily get kicked out of the box, and they are very dusty. When I’ve used wood shavings, I had to clean the boxes twice a day and everything in the room had a thick layer of dust by the weekend. Rating: POOR

Shredded paper is free, but it has no absorbency and no odor control, and it gets everywhere. Using this is about the same as using pure hay, which some people also do. I only use this when I’m in dire need of a litterbox change and the stores are closed, but I’ve never found it acceptable for more than overnight emergency use. Rating: POOR

Carefresh
Carefresh is a product made of compressed paper, shaped into flakes and very soft. has almost zero dust, and great absorbency/odor control. However, as it’s so soft, it can stick in the fur of longer-haired rabbits, and it’s very light and fluffy so it can easily get kicked around and out of the box. It’s also the most expensive product ($17 for 4-5 box changes). Rating: EXCELLENT

Yesterday’s News and Cell-Sorb are equivalent products. Both are made of compressed paper, but formed into cylindrical pellets. Cell-Sorb pellets look like crushed YN pellets, like the YN factory rejects. CellSorb pelletsYesterday\'s NewsThey both have great absorbency and odor control (but slightly less odor control than Carefresh, I feel). Since the pellets are heavier than the Carefresh flakes, they tend to stay in the litterbox better than Carefresh which makes them less messy. They are slightly more dusty than Carefresh, but still miles better than wood shavings. Cell-Sorb is way cheaper if you can get the biggest bags, but both are still fairly expensive (around $20 for 50lbs). Rating: EXCELLENT

Feline PinePine woodstove pelletsFeline Pine (or pine wood-stove pellets) are compressed pine sawdust pellets. They are made with a process that eliminates the dangerous phenols of pine. They are exactly the same thing, but the former is $15 for a 20lb bag, and the later is $5 for a 40lb bag. Absorbency is great, possibly even better than for YN/Cell-Sorb, because the wood pellets break into sawdust which sorta clumps together when wet. Odor control is slightly less than for the paper-based products, but the slight pine smell (if you find that pleasant) seems to mask any urine odor. Both are more dusty than YN/Cell-Sorb but still less dusty than wood shavings. Rating: VERY GOOD TO EXCELLENT

Due to the costs of having so many buns, I use the stove pellets right now ( Marthwood brand in WI) and am pretty happy with them, but if cost was no object, I would use YN/Cell-Sorb exclusively to cut down on dust.

40 Comments »

  1. Single Bun in Cleveland said,

    July 29, 2008 at 6:44 am

    Been using Cell-Sorb Plus for about six years, but have noticed a change in the formulation since about May 2008. The material is chalky, a light tan color (instead of the gray), and VERY dusty. The stuff clumps, instead of holding its shape when wet, making it difficult to get out of the corners of the box. It has become unacceptable and I’m looking for an alternative…

  2. bunnicula said,

    November 2, 2008 at 1:35 pm

    We’ve tried the second box you listed, the square one with a high back. Agreed, it’s no good — our rabbit just pees off the low side.

    The 14×10 cat litter pan did not work for us. Our rabbit’s butt hangs over the top and he pees outside it.

    Our solution: a $2 plastic dishpan from Walmart. I think the brand is Sterilite. It’s about 6-7″ tall and 15×12. Short enough so our rabbit can get it but tall enough to prevent accidents. No indentations on the inside, so it’s easy to clean.

    We use Feline Pine litter.

  3. Erin Barbour said,

    January 19, 2009 at 12:24 pm

    I have two rabbits and I use the simple rectangular cat litter box shown above. I line it with some newspapers (to soak up any urine) and then put plenty of hay (the green kind that they love to chew) on top. I don’t recommend buying the hay from the pet store because you can buy better quality hay from a farm and it is much cheaper. I travel to a farm about 45 minutes away because they sell large bales of hay for only $6 and the hay is green and fresh looking and smells wonderful. This hay usually lasts me about 6 months and the newspapers are free because I get them from recycle bins on collection days, so I only spend $6 every 6 months for litter. It is also easy because I clean the litter boxes every 2-3 days and I just dump the old newspapers and hay in a trash bag, and fill the litter box with fresh papers and hay.

  4. Tina said,

    January 29, 2009 at 2:44 am

    Yesterday’s News contains many dangerous pieces of metal that can hurt rabbits – I found a bunch of stuff, googled it, and found a link here that helps explain it:

    http://homepage.mac.com/mattocks/morfz/yesterdaynews.html

    I prefer Feline Pine.

  5. Lissa Shoun said,

    February 16, 2009 at 7:26 pm

    Newspaper topped with hay served me well for many years. Now I’m dealing with multiple foster rabbits awaiting adoption and needed a better smelling and lower maintenance solution. Tried all the litters mentioned previously plus Crown Animal Bedding and Oxbow Eco-Straw. The winner by a wide margin is Critter County. The odor control is excellent, it has low dust, and is safe if the bunnies eat it. We now change the pans half to one third as often and have less odor. A 40-lb bag should run $15-25. Oxbow Eco-straw was also good for odor control, but tended to stick a bit to the sides of the pans.

    Another excellent product is Sweet PDZ Granular. It comes in a large bag and you’ll find it at feed stores, because it’s marketed for use in horse stalls. A very small amount added to your current litter goes a long way in absorbing the urine odor. I used one third of a cup in a large pan for two bunnies. It’s also safe if the bunnies eat it. The only downside is that it sticks like wet sand to the bottom of the pan. Don’t rinse it down your drains! If you can rinse your pans outside, and pour it on the grass or in your compost, you’ll find this is a very effective and affordable way to reduce odor. And it’s good for your garden. Make sure you get the GRANULAR Sweet PDZ, not the regular stuff which is a powder.

  6. Teresa said,

    January 11, 2010 at 9:56 pm

    I find none of these options suitable. I have a 6kg, 5 year old sandy american flemish giant. Her pees are huge, and when she gets out of the box she is very wet. No type of litter can absorb that quantity of urine, the only thing that does work are medical bed liners that hospitals use. I am currently constructing a mesh insert that sits 10cm off the bottom of the litter box, so that pee and poops can go through the mesh and away from her – hopefully not leaving her so wet, messy and uncomfortable. There is nothing like this on the market here in Australia, I have seen something like this online but there is no way they are built for large rabbits, nor do they have mess-proof sides. If anyone uses something like this method, I would love to know!!

  7. yasmine said,

    April 7, 2010 at 11:40 am

    hi,we just got dorf bunnies and we need to know what kind of litter to put in our tray it is one of the triangle shaped ones…

  8. ACR&S said,

    April 7, 2010 at 12:13 pm

    Use Carefresh, it’s highly absorbent and almost dust-free. It can be found in the small animal aisle of your local pet store. DO NOT USE ANY FORM OF CAT LITTER, as that can cause deadly bowel obstruction.

  9. chilid856 said,

    May 26, 2010 at 11:45 am

    I first used gritter litter that is made to litter train your rabbits. I have two Flemish Giant rabbits. And they have large urine puddles. I found that the litter absorbed well but comes in small bags. So, I now use Carefresh and it works great for me. I just need to figure out to either use a Rubbermaid box, oversize litter box, or a large dish pan for a litter box for my rabbits. Any suggestions from anyone?

  10. Susan Klim said,

    July 22, 2010 at 2:53 pm

    Litter pan problem…I recently acquired a 6-9 month old male rabbit that is a chewer. I love the triangular shaped litter box, but he has destroyed it by chewing along the edges – it no longer holds litter in the front. He has about 10 toys that are either hard plastic or wooden, plenty of hay and pellets all day. I’m looking for a very hard plastic or metal litter pan with high sides. Does anyone know of a source for one? I love all the helpful comments above-thank you!

  11. ACR&S said,

    July 22, 2010 at 5:19 pm

    Avoid metal pans – they are much harder to keep clean, since many are made of zinc, which can corrode easily in the presence of urine.

    Start by trying a traditional plastic cat pan like the grey one pictured above. They come in various depths, so you can try a deeper one without a lot of additional cost investment. If that doesn’t work, try a specialty “ultra deep” cat box, or a storage container.

    Bunnies will chew what they will chew – there’s no stopping them! For a litterbox chewers, sometimes a cardboard play box can provide a new chewing interest for them. Otherwise, simply choose the cheapest plastic litterboxes you can find and plan to replace them as needed. If your bunny is not yet neutered, altering him can also help reduce destructive behaviors.

  12. Chris said,

    July 23, 2010 at 10:27 am

    Hi my supposed netherland dwarf – although looks just like a cotton tail rabbit that you find in a field very close to us, but fatter – is just so clean, but her but overhangs the large rabbit trays we’ve bought for her, but I’ve found that using a high sided washing up bowl and put in shavings and a thin layer of hay she can chew on whilst doing her business is really good for her. I had to initially put her into the ‘bowl’, but since she’s leaped into it and did her business and ate the hay too – so win win

  13. Sally said,

    December 14, 2010 at 9:38 pm

    Can you please tell me where you found those litter boxes that have an opening on the side? I think you said they were about $20? I just rescued a rabbit from the side of the freeway – a white pet rabbit!!! has a bad leg and has difficulty getting in and out of a regular litter box.
    If you could email me where you saw them – that would be so helpful.
    Thank you!
    Sally
    sb4098@yahoo.com

  14. shawn said,

    December 19, 2010 at 1:43 pm

    Do rabbits need a hiding place like I was told because I had a small litter box in the cage but I change from the good advise ur site provided (the large cat litter box) and I have the large plastic hiding house but now it seems like he barley has room to move and I have him in a large dog cage. Do I need that house?

  15. ACR&S said,

    December 20, 2010 at 9:26 am

    Yes, they do need a hidy place. Without it, they can get timid and cage aggressive. Even just a covered litterbox helps, or a small cardboard box.

  16. masterofboots said,

    September 19, 2011 at 7:56 pm

    Hi, am looking for advice about my very naughty ND rabbits and their litter box. I use a cardboard litter box, lining it with newspapers and paper-based pellets. They do use it, but they also thrash up the litter box every day, like dig up all the newspapers below and kick out the pellets. They won’t use the plastic (grated) box :( I read here that folks clean the litter box every two days, but my rabbits’ are a mess by the end of the day. What am I doing wrong?

  17. ACR&S said,

    September 20, 2011 at 7:08 am

    For some rabbits, the allure of tearing up the paper is just too much and they will never do will in a paper lined bin. I would try a plain plastic storage bin like the Rubbermaid one I mentioned above – don’t use a grated one. Try filling it with litter but without any newspaper. You may also wish to add some hay to encourage them to view it as a place to sit, eat, and poop rather than as a place to dig and play. You’ll need to clean it with white vinegar to get the urine crystals out.

    Good luck!

  18. Taz1227 said,

    October 29, 2011 at 2:10 pm

    I know it has been a year since Teresa posted about using a “mesh” cage. Does anyone have that type of cage? My bunnies like “poop and pee” where they eat and drink. So if I can get all of their “experiences” in one place would be great! I have food in their box but not water. They are 9 and “contrary”. Lol

  19. Brandy said,

    December 7, 2011 at 11:03 am

    i have 2 questions. 1) I have an at least 5 yr old neutered mixed breed male rabbit. I use a metal litter box that has a grate over the top since he chews terribly on any and all plastic even with all the other chewable toys in his cage. A few months ago, I was gone for a week and the person who was pet sitting got scared of him when he slapped her hand so she didn’t clean out his litter box. When I got home he had clumps of poo stuck to his rear end and ever since then he still gets it stuck to him no matter how clean I keep his litter box. I had noticed a few pieces sticking to his fur now and then before hand and I just gently pulled them off but now it’s much worse. Has anyone experienced this? Is it common in older rabbits? He doesn’t seem arthritic but he’s never been a very active rabbit, preferring to find a comfortable spot to lay down than run around and explore. Would it help if I could find a larger or taller litter box since he tends to go in the exact same spot every time? Any suggestion would be helpful with this.

    2) I also have a 16 month old female rabbit that I got this summer. The people I got her from said she was litter boxed trained but in all the months I’ve had her she’s never used the litter box. I’ve been using exactly the same things on her (food, bedding, litter material, etc,) her previous owners were and even making sure that they were in the same places in her cage but it doesn’t help. Her litter box is in a corner of the cage and has hay and her food dish in it, her water bottle is in another corner and her house in a third corner and she seems to use the empty corner as her potty spot. If I block it with a toy or small chew box, she just goes in the middle of the cage. Her bedding is changed at least 3 or 4 times a week and her cage scrubbed clean of all urine spots but nothing has helped. I’ve read online about litter box training a rabbit but no method has worked. However, she does always go back to her cage to potty when she’s running around the house. Would it help if I put her in a smaller cage where she didn’t have as much room when she had to be caged? Any suggestions would be helpful.

    Thanks.

  20. ACR&S said,

    December 7, 2011 at 1:11 pm

    Hi Brandy, thanks for your questions!

    With regard to the boy: yes, older rabbits can be prone to having poo stuck to them. This is usually due to one of two factors:

    One, he could be developing arthritis which it makes it painful for him to clean himself.
    Two, he could be developing a gut sensitivity to green veggies and/or pellets which makes his poo stickier, and therefore more likely to get caught in his fur.

    I would see your vet immediately about testing him for arthritis, and also reduce the amount of pellets and wet veggies. Stemmy greens and herbs without high moisture content such as broccoli, parsley, cilantro, kale, mint, dill, and fennel are good. Reduce or eliminate wet foods like lettuces and spinach, and sugary foods such as carrots or apple (avoid any fruit). Make sure he has unlimited grass-based hay (not alfalfa) at all times to make up the extra roughage that will help his gut! After 6 weeks, re-evaluate and see if his stool is not getting caught in his fur as frequently. If there is no improvement, definitely see your vet for a further workup.

    With regard to the girl:
    First, is she spayed yet? If not, it is unlikely that she will be successfully littertrained until she is altered. I would schedule surgery ASAP.

    If she is spayed, a smaller cage will NOT help and may in fact make the problem worse. Small cages make it impossible for a rabbit to get far enough away from their feces, so they start to treat the entire cage as the litterpan. How big is her current cage? If it is under 2′x4′ (8 square feet) it already may be too small. That’s why she goes back in when she’s having playtime -she already regards the entire cage as a litterbox.

    I would increase the size of her cage as much as possible – using a dog x-pen is a great solution if you’re tight on space, because you can make it larger at night and when you are away from the house, and smaller when you need to be moving through that space. I would get four large rubbermaid containers – the kind which are about 29″L x 18″W x 6″H – and put one in every corner of the cage. Put hay in all four boxes. The larger space and the option to have multiple boxes may be all she needs to “get it”. You will probably see within 6-8 weeks that she has chosen at least two boxes to use, and doesn’t use the other two – then you can try removing them one at a time until she has just two boxes. If she starts to have accidents again, add the boxes back. She may just need more potty space than other bunnies.

    I hope this helps and best of luck!

  21. Janette Welsh said,

    March 4, 2012 at 8:27 am

    Our 7 yr. old dwarf rabbit rests and sleeps in his litter box. What is that all about? He does his business in the litter box.

  22. WHERE DO I BUY THE BOX BELOW said,

    March 18, 2012 at 3:26 pm

    Special needs or elderly rabbits may have trouble getting into litter boxes with tall sizes, yet may still need the deep walls to contain accidents. I recently found some very nice litter pans marketed for dogs. They have one side with a very low door (about 2″ high) but the inside is spacious and deep. They come in a variety of sizes. The only disadvantage is that they are very expensive – about $20 for the large 24″x30″ size that I use for my BROOKE

  23. WHERE DO I BUY THE BOX BELOW said,

    April 15, 2012 at 12:02 pm

    DESPERATE Special needs or elderly rabbits may have trouble getting into litter boxes with tall sizes, yet may still need the deep walls to contain accidents. I recently found some very nice litter pans marketed for dogs. They have one side with a very low door (about 2″ high) but the inside is spacious and deep. They come in a variety of sizes. The only disadvantage is that they are very expensive – about $20 for the large 24″x30″ size that I use for my large elderly lop. Rating: VERY GOOD

  24. Ford said,

    May 26, 2012 at 2:42 am

    The litter box you are looking for is from Purina. It is called the Second Nature Dog Litter Pan. I have searched all over, and it appears to be discontinued. Let me know if you find a source for it! This may work for your bunny though, and this is what I’ll probably try (also note, that it was used in the marketing of another dog litter pan!):

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013LI4GM/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

    http://www.rascaldoglitterbox.com/photos_product_info

  25. Charity said,

    September 29, 2012 at 2:45 pm

    I love the idea of using a 10 gallon tote for a litter box since my rabbits dig and throw litter all over the place lately.
    In the picture with the 10 gallon tote, there is a hay holder. Where did you get it? I can’t seem to find anything like it. All of the ones marketed for bunnies seem to be too tiny to be useful, but that one you have looks like a good size.

  26. ACR&S said,

    September 29, 2012 at 3:54 pm

    It’s a ClosetMaid Packet Pal: http://tinyurl.com/7tosbbu. Available at most hardware stores, in the closet/organizer aisle.

  27. Charity-not the same one from above said,

    October 8, 2012 at 8:46 am

    Thank you very much for the detailed review of all these methods and products. I have a 5 month Mini Rex and am having trouble litter box training her. I’m going to try methods like changing the litter and increasing the number of boxes that was mentioned in the thread above. Thanks again!

  28. mike saterfiel said,

    November 6, 2012 at 1:42 pm

    does the plastic litter boxes hurt rabbits.. mine loves to chew on it and afraid he is eating the plastic?

  29. ACR&S said,

    November 6, 2012 at 2:07 pm

    Most rabbits don’t ingest the plastic, but if he is, it could be a problem. Try swapping it with a taller box, or running plastic tubing or pipe (1/2″ or wider diameter) along the sides he nibbles. Rabbits don’t like to chew wider surfaces as much as narrow ones so this is usually a very good deterrent.

  30. Glynis Kirsch said,

    November 28, 2012 at 11:17 am

    Where can I get the litter pan mentioned above (large 24″x30″ size)..

    Thanks!

  31. ACR&S said,

    November 28, 2012 at 12:15 pm

    It was manufactured by Second Nature but apparently is no longer available. You could try the “Petmate Giant Litter Pan” and simply cut down the edge a bit more if needed. This time of year you may also be able to find wreath storage boxes, which are nearly the same size and may work almost as well.

  32. paw said,

    January 8, 2013 at 4:28 am

    mine seem to like squeezing themselves into the corner and smaller square boxes (like cats like boxes) i just use hay as a liner, i put the coarser strawlike hay on the bottom and the softer hay on top, making a thick nest. liquid goes right thru to bottom and the dropping filter down with movement. i just throw a handful of fresh hay on top for a quick tidy, and chuck the contents on my compost every few days. no smell, no waste. they like to chew as they ‘go’ they are very potty driven!

  33. Carrie said,

    March 14, 2013 at 5:43 pm

    Here’s an idea that may be useful to folks who have a rabbit that tends to dig up the bottom of the litter box. Get a baking cooling rack that comes in a grid (large enough for droppings to fall through, but small enough to be comfortable for rabbit feet), bend the sides to fit into the litter box and put that on top of the litter. This will separate the rabbit/hay from the litter below and keep the rabbit from digging stuff up (in my case it’s newspaper). Added bonus is the rack may also keep your rabbit from sitting in it’s own mess depending on how high it rests above the litter. When I clean out the litter box I lift up the rack with leftover hay and dump what’s underneath. One drawback is when the rabbit is shedding and gets stringy droppings that get caught up, but that’s about it.

  34. Jessica said,

    March 19, 2013 at 7:19 am

    Ok I just got a rabbit yesterday. He is a baby mini lop (8 or 9 weeks old), I know he is a little young to attempt litter training but I figure ill try to start now and worse case scenario it will take awhile. I currently have no litter box but will buy one tomorrow. I have the bedding in his cage as the carefresh bedding but I read that the bedding and litter need to be different. Can I use a box with newspaper at the bottom and a lot of timothy hay on top? If I do that should I only put the hay in his litter box? Should I use the carefresh in both? Should I put carefresh in the litterbox and no liner? thanks.

  35. KatieB123 said,

    July 31, 2013 at 8:44 pm

    Hi, we have two male bunnies and both are a fairly good size. One is a dwarf be he is still rather big and the other is a large rex. They are both litter trained but we still have found it hard to keep their poops and other un-mentionables inside of the litter box. The solution- a plastic container box from wal-mart. Just take the top off and it’s perfect. Also, we use none of your litters but instead use timothy hay. It’s VERY CHEAP and it works great. It absorbs odor well but not as well as others because we have to change it every other day if we want to have a non-existent smell. The only problem is that they sometimes tip it over when trying to get in but it’s an easy fix. Just cut a door in the front and maybe add some small weights. We also have a great cage for them. It’s actually a 2×6 dog exercise pen but it works great and it’s almost 3 feet so they can’t hop out. It’s on a wooden frame with a 3 inch lip to keep them from spilling hay out the sides and it has wheels on the bottom. It stays clean and is very functional. However we do let our bunnies out daily because almost no pen is really big enough for them to stay in all the time and they get more attention that way.

  36. Lindsay said,

    August 23, 2013 at 5:30 am

    We have 2 house bunnies and when we tried to litter train them they thought the litter box was for digging and had a great time trashing it everyday. We tried everything and in the end the answer was straw. We use a few handfuls of compressed recycled paper pellets towards the back of a high sided litter pan and then just top with straw and a handful of hay. We change it everyday which is a quick process. We had to stop using sheets of newspaper as the bunnies couldn’t resist digging for it and shredding it.

  37. belinda said,

    September 20, 2013 at 11:47 pm

    Thanks for your great article. I use a plastic underbed storage box for my litter tray. It came with a lid, which I dont use. I fill it up with compressed recycled cat litter and on the other edge fill it with a layer of hay to munch on. I have two rabbits one small and a continental giant. I pick out the dirty litter with a glove daily I can see it as it goes dark. Then change the whole lot every 7-10 days. I top it up daily in the corners only. I find this works well.

  38. Kate said,

    October 31, 2013 at 8:19 am

    What is the brand name or website link to where I can purchase the low side 24×30 litter pan? I have been researching for days and this is exactly what I am looking for for elderly animal. Thankyou in advance.

  39. Catherine Aldana said,

    December 7, 2013 at 1:49 pm

    Please tell me where I can buy the white, very low-opening litter boxes that I see pictured and recommended on your site.

    Thank you for your assistance.

  40. JP said,

    March 7, 2014 at 10:53 am

    I think the urine needs to drain away from the litter if possible. I am going to try two cat litter pans ($2 each), and I’ll drill a bunch of holes in the top litter pan, and stack it on top of the litter pan with no holes. I’ll put regular newspaper in the bottom litter pan to absorb urine, and YN in the top litter pan along with all the hay.

    Hoping that I can reduce the amount of urine absorbed by the expensive YN, and also: the red wiggler worms in my compost prefer urine-free rabbit pellets.

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